Saturday Summary: Week 5 - Soggy, Resilient, and Heartwarming

Spartanburg, SC → Wedgefield, SC → Atlanta, GA | Nov 29th - Dec 5th 

Week 5 began on an upswing as Skuhlie was healthy again, humming southward, and spirits were high. We made a last-minute route change to stay in Spartanburg at a campground simply because it had electricity, which meant one glorious thing: the heater would run all night. The overnight lows were dipping into the high 20s and low 30s, which is not what our “chasing 70°” plan was intended to do. But then friends from Upstate NY sent photos of six inches of snow and single-digit temps. So yes, I complain… but we are absolutely headed in the right direction.

The Spartanburg campground was simple and clean, nothing glamorous, but functional and exactly what we needed. Don set up shop in the laundry room (Wifi + washers = productivity), and we got a load done so we wouldn’t fall behind. We also refilled our propane growler, which has truly been one of our best decisions on this trip. Instead of going through endless single-use green propane canisters, this refillable tank gives us zero waste and full peace of mind when cooking. A little win in an adventure sometimes filled with chaos.

Congaree National Park

The next morning, we headed for Congaree National Park, the largest remaining old-growth bottomland hardwood forest in the Southeast. It’s a place that feels ancient, quiet, and very alive. We took the boardwalk loop, which was serene… until Lucky realized she could see the ground through the cracks. Our fearless little adventurer transformed into a statue. It took a solid five to ten minutes of micro-steps, gentle encouragement, and letting her fully process the existential crisis of a transparent floor before she snapped out of it. And then, just like that, she was totally fine for the rest of the hike. Honestly, I get it. With my fear of heights, my rational brain knows I’m safe… but my body still freezes, freaks out, and needs a moment to recalibrate. I just wish I could learn from Lucky and snap out of it, I could learn from my sweet little lady.

Poinsett State Park

Later that day, we continued to Poinsett State Park, a beautiful, quiet place with rolling trails, a small lake, and that old-fashioned peacefulness you get only in state parks. The next morning, Don went on a 5K run, I chose to take the loop around the lake, which, in hindsight, was questionable, because I had just seen the sign about alligators.

For the record: Alligators don’t hibernate, they brumate. I had to look this up to ease my concerns. This means they slow way down but remain aware and awake, capable of movement, and (to me) continue being creepy as hell. They can even poke their nostrils through frozen water like snorkels, which is frankly nightmare material. I knew they were unlikely to be active in the cold, but I still walked the entire loop, keeping a sharp eye out for them and constantly muttering to myself about my silly choice.

Poinsett State Park turned out to be unexpectedly fascinating for another reason: it sits right next to Shaw Air Force Base, where they conduct air-to-ground test bombing. Yes—actual bombing practice. As we drove in, we passed multiple signs warning of the training zones. Terrifying is one way to describe how I felt. Beautiful trails, quiet forest… and just over the tree line, the reminder that jets might be dropping test bombs nearby. The Southeast really keeps you on your toes.

Because Poinsett had no usable cell signal, we ventured into Sumter to scout a workable location for Don to do calls the next day. The Sumter County Library had a good parking-lot signal, so we checked that box and then headed to Sumter Original Brewery (SOB) for lunch. Excellent beer, great food, great atmosphere,  so great that I had just a little too much beer. We brought a growler back to camp and enjoyed it beside our first campfire of the trip.

It was cold, damp, and somehow completely perfect. I also finally cracked open my paint-by-numbers kit. I had packed it thinking I’d spend quiet evenings painting and listening to audiobooks… and then a month went by. But Week 5 was my moment. 

Sumter - Downtown Contradictions

We returned to the Sumter library the next morning for a full work session. Lucky and I explored downtown, which is a fascinating mix of thriving and struggling blocks. On one street, you’ll find beautiful shops, bakeries, a brewery, a fountain plaza, and a giant INSPIRE sculpture begging for photos. And then you turn a corner and see crumbling buildings and empty storefronts. It feels like a city right on the tipping point, some parts flourishing, others waiting for a second chance.

That night, the rain started… and did not stop for over 15 straight hours.

Augusta → Atlanta

The next morning, we drove toward Atlanta in cold, relentless drizzle. We stopped in Augusta, where Don worked at a Waffle House (which feels very poetically Southern) while I logged in to my City Nation Place Accelerator course from Skuhlie. After lunch, we pushed through to Atlanta, where my sister welcomed us into warmth and with an awaiting cup of wine. We spent several days catching up, I even had an opportunity to catch up with both my nephews! I know I say this every week, but it remains true: seeing friends and family along the route is one of the biggest joys of this adventure.

Atlanta refused to give us the Hotlanta's warmth and instead greeted us with temperatures in the 40s and continuous rainy days. The cold is following us like a clingy side character.

Lucky also got to meet Oscar—Heddy’s dog and arguably one of the coolest dogs on the planet. And thankfully, Oscar’s veterinarian was able to squeeze us in when Lucky suddenly developed a UTI. We left with antibiotics and fingers crossed that she’ll bounce back quickly.

Next stop: Florida, the Sunshine State! I sure hope it delivers